95 points
Intense, deeply draughted Chardonnay fruit is the driving force of this close-to-opulent wine, and, while ripe, very full on the palate and wonderfully rich, there is simply nothing heavy or unwieldly about it. Its flamboyant oak never once threatens to overshadow its unwavering fruit, and it stays alive and vibrant owing to perfectly placed acidity. It has a long life before it and is likely to improve for years to come, but it is so downright delicious and involving right now that waiting will come as a real task.